The Bell Inn

This is a wonderful inn in the heart of the Cotswolds, and my destination for one night’s stay after walking across country. I was partly drawn to it by Giles Coren’s ecstatic review of the food. I arrived to discover a cosy, kindly hostelry, a perfect hideaway, with aromas of woodsmoke and promising dinners to come. My room was delightful (though there is a smell of sewage on the way up…) and I had a very comfortable night’s sleep - except for one tiny thing - if you leave the window open, it rattles and needs tightening up. (Sorry, I meant to mention this when I checked out.) The St John claret is excellent, a very good and affordable option. For main, I had the venison loin with salsify, horseradish, bacon and a side of creamed spinach. Although the venison could have been a little warmer, this was a magnificent meal. The horseradish was very sharp but the balance of flavours worked beautifully. Pear sorbet to follow also unusual and delicious. My only disappointment was the cheese selection. Only two cheeses, both of them mild to the point of blandness. For that price, and given how much skill went into the main, I thought this was really very poor. I’d always expect three cheeses, and traditionally a cheddar, a blue and a soft cheese. This was just a soft and what looked like perhaps Ashcombe. At least it was served at room temperature and not straight out of the fridge however, as so many places insist on doing. The atmosphere was very genial, and the service was perfect, very attentive and friendly. And at breakfast, the little-known but charming “Path Towards Tomorrow” by Damien Montagu was playing, a favourite of mine. I would definitely stay again - the cheeseboard was the only misstep for me and all the more because everything else was so right.